PORTRAIT OF MARTA, WORKSHOP OPERATIONS MANAGER
After being designed by the designer, it's the expert hands of jewelry craftsmen who bring the collections to life. These jewels are designed to become one with the wearer, while enhancing her outfits. But they are often much more than that. They represent soul, sentimental value and immortalize life's moments.
Whether it's a personalized piece of jewelry or not, or a custom-made piece, our 18 gold jewelry carats comes to life thanks to the know-how of our jewelers. Whether it is for a yellow gold necklace, a white gold bracelet, a rose gold ring, an earring set with diamonds, a baptism medal, or a custom-made jewel in 18K gold, our craftsmen are at the heart of our creativity.
To share their love of craftsmanship and jewelry with you, we interviewed Marta, Director of Operations at one of our partner jewelry ateliers.
Marta, Director of Operations, Albert, son and grandson of the atelier's founders, as well as jewellery craftsmen.
Ange Raphaël christening medal.
COULD YOU TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT YOUR JOB?
I'm COO of the workshop. I've been working here for 30 years. I studied jewelry and gemology, specializing in diamonds.
"Over the years of working here, I've been able to put everything I've learned into practice, especially with the workshop's founder, who always gives final approval to the products."
- Marta
WHAT DO YOU ENJOY MOST ABOUT YOUR JOB?
Craftsmanship and traditional know-how.
DO YOU REMEMBER YOUR FIRST CREATION FOR POINÇON 22 ?
In 2017, we started with the Baptismal, Ange Raphael and Enfant Jesus medals, as well as the Mamma and Amore medals.
What are the different stages involved in making a medal?
Example with medals Amore, Mamma, My Poinçon 22.
Preparation of the metal plate with the exact thickness and the file for laser-cutting the shape.
Cutting the shape piece by piece with the laser. Once cut, the shape is detached from the plate.
The jeweler then begins to work on it, reshaping and polishing the piece.
The craftsman comes to fit the bezel and seal it with a blowtorch.
The medal then passes into the hands of the gem-setter, who sets the stone, in this case a diamond.
An initial polish is applied before the engraving and stamping to personalize the medal.
The polisher removes all impurities and micro-scratches for a perfect medal.
The medal has left the workshop and been dispatched to Poinçon 22 , where it is once again inspected before being packaged.
What makes a good artisan jeweler?
Perfect knowledge of techniques to achieve the best possible end result, with particular attention to details and finishing touches.
What are the challenges of your job?
The problem for all jewellers is the porosity in the pieces.
"Jewellery-making is not an exact science, it's never the same result. Metal can also react differently from one creation to another. "
- Marta
What's the most important thing to consider for a perfect jewelry result?
We have to master every stage of the manufacturing process if we are to produce quality jewelry that meets our customers' expectations.
Are the ancestral skills of jewellery-making compatible with new technologies?
Yes, technology is compatible with the jeweler's ancestral know-how. It helps in the manufacture of the product, even bringing a more regular result. For example, laser-cutting the pieces produces medals with more regular shapes.
"It's necessary to master ancestral know-how in order to be able to make the best use of new technologies. The two are compatible, but above all necessary. "
- Marta
Have you noticed any change in the types of jewelry you make in recent years?
Yes, today's brands are making smaller, less imposing jewels due to the price of metal, which has risen sharply.
What's the most incredible piece of jewelry you've made for Poinçon 22 (or not)?
Octagonal-shaped solitaires with small pearls around the central diamond and pave diamonds.
What's your favourite Poinçon 22 collection?
I love the Éternité collection!
What do you think makes Poinçon 22 jewelry unique?
Their simplicity, elegance and the possibility of personalizing the jewelry.
What advice would you give to someone wishing to enter your profession?
Love what you do and have the right training to acquire an excellent grounding in jewelry: design, drawing, workshop, diamonds, etc. This is the best way for me to master the manufacturing process and satisfy the wishes and expectations of the end customer. For me, this is the best way to master the manufacturing process and satisfy the wishes and expectations of the end customer.
Finally, Poinçon 22 in three words?
Fine, elegant, very cute.
thank you marta
We'd like to thank Marta for sharing her time and experience with us. Through this portrait, we wanted to share with you the ancestral know-how and passion of the jeweler's craft. Marta is an invaluable part of our manufacturing process, and it's partly thanks to her that the wonders of Poinçon 22 see the light of day.